Something not right? Don't panic. Most problems have simple fixes.
Homebrewing is forgiving. Most "problems" either fix themselves, don't affect the beer much, or have simple solutions. The beer is almost certainly fine.
Possible causes:
What to do:
How to tell: Gravity readings are stable but higher than expected FG.
Possible causes:
What to do:
What's happening: Foam is pushing through the airlock or popping the lid off.
Cause: Very active fermentation + not enough headspace in fermenter.
What to do:
This is actually a sign of healthy, happy yeast. Not a bad problem to have.
Probably fine if:
Might be infection if:
What to do: If it smells and tastes okay, it's probably fine. Proceed with bottling. If it's clearly moldy or smells bad, you may need to dump it (sorry).
Cause: Yeast byproduct that wasn't cleaned up. Often from rushing fermentation or cold temps.
Fix:
Prevention: Don't rush fermentation. Let it sit at proper temperature for the full two weeks.
Cause: Intermediate fermentation compound. Usually means fermentation isn't fully complete.
Fix: Same as diacetyl—warm it up, swirl, give it more time. Yeast converts this to ethanol when given a chance.
Prevention: Let fermentation complete fully before bottling.
Cause: Fermentation temperature too high. Yeast produces more of these at warmer temps.
Fix: Mild levels will mellow with time. Strong solvent flavors don't really go away.
Prevention: Ferment at the yeast's recommended temperature range. For US-05, that's 59-75°F, ideally 64-68°F.
Cause: Normal yeast byproduct, especially with certain strains.
Fix: Usually scrubs out during fermentation and conditioning. If it persists, more time typically helps.
Prevention: Some yeast strains are just sulfury. It almost always goes away.
Cause: Oxygen exposure after fermentation. Splashing during transfer, too much headspace, or slow leaks.
Fix: Can't be fixed once it happens. Drink the beer sooner rather than later.
Prevention: Minimize splashing when transferring finished beer. Fill bottles to proper level. Store cool.
Cause: Bacterial infection, usually from poor sanitation.
Fix: If it's just slightly tart, some people enjoy it. If it's strongly sour or vinegary, it's likely not salvageable.
Prevention: Sanitize everything that touches the beer after the boil. See sanitation guide.
Cause: Over-spiced. This is exactly what the tincture method is designed to prevent!
Fix: Time can help mellow strong spices. Blending with unspiced beer (if you have some) can dilute it.
Prevention: Add tincture gradually, taste as you go. Start with less than you think you need.
Possible causes:
Fix options:
Important: Haze doesn't affect flavor. If it tastes good, drink it!
Cause: Normal! That's yeast that settled after carbonation.
What to do:
Possible causes:
What to do:
Possible causes:
What to do:
Severely over-carbonated bottles can explode. If bottles are bulging or gushing violently, put them in a cooler or plastic container in case of breakage.
Cause: Uneven distribution of priming sugar or yeast.
Prevention:
Too high (above 160°F):
Too low (below 148°F):
Good news: The mash is forgiving. Anywhere from 148-160°F will make beer. It just affects the final character slightly.
During the boil: Turn off heat, let it calm down, then resume at lower heat. Keep a spray bottle of water handy—a quick spray can knock down foam.
Prevention:
Cause: Not extracting enough sugar from the grains.
Quick fix: Add a bit of DME (dry malt extract) to boost gravity. Or just accept a slightly lower ABV beer.
For next time:
Options:
Possible causes:
Fix: Make more tincture and add more. The beauty of the tincture method is you can always add more later (even after bottling, in your glass).
Options:
Prevention: Add tincture very gradually. Start with half what you think you need.
Cause: The vodka base is noticeable when using a lot of tincture.
Solutions:
Most problems work themselves out with patience. When in doubt: taste it. If it tastes okay, it probably is okay.
For issues not covered here, homebrewing communities are incredibly helpful: